©Wonderful walks in the Vallee Des Merveilles

Hiking in the Alpes-Maritimes: exploring the mountains in summer and their enigmatic engravings

Exploring the mountain in summer and its enigmatic engravings Walks in the Valley of Wonders

Perched in the heart of the Mercantour National Park, between steep mountains and high-altitude lakes, the Vallée des Merveilles is a unique place! In the Alpes-Maritimes, the engraved rocks tell a story that goes back thousands of years. From the hamlet of Castérino, set off on foot, rucksack in hand, to discover these strange prehistoric figures, lost between rocky plateaux and breathtaking panoramas.

Accompanied by a guide or on your own, the experience combines wild nature, archaeological discovery and the simple pleasure of a walk far from the hustle and bustle of the world. A two-day loop with a night in a refuge? A day hike to a glacial lake? There’s something for every level and every taste.

And for the more inquisitive, a visit to the Musée des Merveilles in Tende is ideal before the big hike! Put on your boots and grab your rucksack, we’re taking you on a hike!

©Merveilleux logo

©Vallee Des Merveilles Mercantour National Park Mickael Besse

Our local guides :

true wonders

In the Southern Alps, in the heart of the Mercantour National Park, there are trails that you can’t walk alone. Because they cross a sacred land, inhabited since the dawn of time. Because they are strewn with mysterious signs and 4,000-year-old rock engravings that you have to learn to listen to. And because some stories deserve to be told out loud, by those who know how to tell them!

In the Vallée des Merveilles and the Fontanalba Valley, the “Merveilles, Gravures et Découvertes” guides are these passers-on. This group of around twenty mountain guides is the only one authorised by the Mercantour National Park to offer official tours of this exceptional archaeological site.

All are trained in thehistory of Mont Bégo, its engravings and how to interpret them. Their mission: to help you discover this heritage, unique in Europe, guide you off the beaten track, and help you read what ancient Mediterranean civilisations have left in stone.

Their approach is not limited to the results of the excavations: they also relay the beliefs, symbols and ancient legends… So that beyond the hike, it’s a real experience of discovery!

A rock, signs, ancient worlds

At the turn of a path, in the middle of the mountains, they appear: strange figures engraved in the stone. A bull with majestic horns, stylised carriages, human figures with their arms raised, enigmatic geometric shapes… Between the Fontanalbe Valley and the Vallée des Merveilles, the choice is yours!

On the orange walls of Mont Bégo, at an altitude of over 2,000 metres, over 40,000 rock engravings have been recorded, dating mainly from protohistory (between 3,200 and 1,800 BC). At Fontanalba, a more confidential but equally impressive site, other engravings are still visible, sometimes better preserved, away from the crowds.

These engravings are not there by chance. They are concentrated around a summit long considered sacred, at the crossroads of Alpine and Mediterranean influences.

Where do the

A little secret about toponymy: the name “Vallée des Merveilles” (Valley of Wonders) doesn’t necessarily come from the wonder of the landscape… but rather from an old, haphazard translation from Italian. Originally, it evoked a strange, almost mystical world, where people spoke of spells and inexplicable phenomena. An unexpected etymology, but in the end quite accurate, so much so that the atmosphere of the site seems to float outside time and reality…

©Voie Sacree Vallee De Fontanalbe Roya Vallee Des Merveilles Mickael Besse

©Guided Tour Rock Engravings Fontanalbe Valley Mercantour National Park Pango Visual

Interpretations… and mystery

What was the purpose of these engravings? Why here, so high up, so far away? And above all, what do they mean?

Archaeologists, ethnologists and historians of religion all agree on one thing: these figures tell of a relationship with the sacred, with the cosmos, with mother earth. Some evoke agrarian rites, others symbols of power or protection, and still others could represent forgotten divinities.

But what makes the visit so valuable is that none of the engravings can be read on their own. You need time, perspective and a certain amount of light. You need to know how to distinguish between what is natural and what has been engraved. And above all, you need to know how to look at things differently.

That’s where the “Merveilles, Gravures et Découvertes”guides come in! Trained in archaeological analysis, they help you see what you might have missed: an angle of view, a detail, a superimposition of figures. And they’ll also take you off the authorised trails on your own… Don’t wait any longer to go hiking with them in the Mercantour National Park!

📌 Easy access, stunning scenery

Good news: the Merveilles and Fontanalba valleys are the closest to the rock engravings on Mont Bégo… and the ones with the most direct access to discover them. For less experienced walkers, an authorised 4×4 vehicle will take you to a starting point very close to the archaeological sites. But whichever route you choose, the climb is already an adventure: flower-filled plateaux, high-altitude lakes, spectacular panoramas of the Alpes-Maritimes… These valleys are not just a path to the engravings, they are a real hike in themselves.

©Vallee De La Valmasque Mercantour National Park Pango Visual 1 Min

Our favourite walks in the Alpes-Maritimes

Here are just a few of them!

A walk to the Lac des Grenouilles

📍 Start: Hameau de Castérino, Tende
📏 Distance: Approximately 9 kilometres in a loop Difference in altitude: +400 m
⏱️ Duration: 4h

🗓️ Recommended period: May to October
👣 On your own

From the hamlet of Castérino, the Bicknell trail guides you through woods and clearings to a pretty lake nestled at an altitude of 2,000 metres. Here you can picnic overlooking the peaks, look out for marmots, chamois and ibex and, above all, take your time. Perfect for a family outing or a first approach to high-altitude landscapes!

🔗Click here to download the GPX route for this hike

The 2-day rock engravings tour

📍 Start: Castérino
📏 Distance: approx. 12 kilometres/day Difference in altitude: +1,180 m / -560 m
⏱️ Duration: 2 days

🗓️ Recommended period: mid-June to end of September
👣 Guide recommended (restricted area)

Departing from Castérino, this mythical loop takes you to the famous Vallée des Merveilles and then to the Fontanalba Valley for the duration of a nature hike. Walking between high altitude lakes and rocky chaos, you’ll discover mysterious engravings guided by enthusiasts. Every summer, the “Merveilles, Gravures et Découvertes” guides take you as close as possible to the rock engravings. Thanks to them, the shapes become stories, the symbols come to life. These half-day or full-day tours are a unique opportunity to visit protected areas and discover some well-kept secrets…

An overnight stay in a refuge extends the experience, in the heart of unspoilt nature…

🔗 Click here to download the GPX route for this hike

©Casterino @otc Menton Riviera Merveilles

©Lakes From Casterino @otc Menton Riviera Merveilles

The Fontanalba valley

📍 Start: Castérino
📏 Distance: 11.8 kilometres – Difference in altitude: +790 m
⏱️ Duration: Approximately 5h30

🗓️ Recommended period: June to September
👣 With or without a guide (some areas are restricted)

Fontanalba is the discreet little sister of the Vallée des Merveilles. Less frequented and wilder, it winds its paths between high altitude lakes and flower-filled lawns. You’ll come across a few (sometimes well-hidden!) engravings and chamois along the way. Do it on your own to reconnect with nature, or with a guide to lift the veil on the history of the area.

🔗 Click here to download the GPX route for this hike

©Family outing in the Vallee Des Merveilles Tende Otc

A checklist for hikers in the Vallée des Merveilles ✅

Before setting off on an adventure along the Mercantour trails, a good hiker needs to prepare… and keep an eye out! Here are a few tips for your next hike in the Alpes-Maritimes :

🎒 If you’re well-equipped, you’re already off to a good start

Hiking boots: hiking trails can be unstable, rocky or slippery after rain.
Light but complete rucksack: with water (min. 1.5 L/person), snacks, windbreaker, hat, sunglasses and sun cream.
IGN map or GPS track if you’re going on your own (and know how to use it).
Warm clothing: in the mountains, wind and storms can surprise even in summer.

🌦️ Mountain weather: capricious but predictable

Always check the local weather forecast before setting off on a hike, and adapt your itinerary accordingly. A blue sky in the village is no guarantee at 2,500 metres.
If a thunderstorm is forecast, postpone your hike. The area is mineral and exposed, with no shelter in sight.
Leave early: heat storms often arrive in the late afternoon in the Alpes-Maritimes.

🧭 Safety and independence

In mountain areas, there isn’t always a network: let someone know your route and return time.
Keep some margin in timing and energy: a descent requires as much attention as a climb.
Don’t rely on water sources: some run dry in summer. Make sure you have plenty of water at the start of the hike.
Pack a bag for your picnic waste.
Respect protected sites.
In the core zone of the national park, never leave the marked paths: this is essential to protect the engravings (and it is strictly forbidden to leave them!).
Don’t rub or touch the engraved rocks: looking is good. Touching is forbidden.
Dogs are not allowed in the core zone, even on a lead.

Extending the experience

Before setting off on a hike in the valley, a short diversions to the Musée des Merveilles in Tende is a must. It’s the ideal starting point for delving into the world of rock engravings: here you can discover the emblematic figures of the site, models of the valley, prehistoric tools and the latest archaeological hypotheses. There’s plenty to whet your curiosity and give you a better understanding of what you’ll see next in the field.

And if you want to extend your immersion in the Alpes-Maritimes, there’s no shortage of walks around the Mercantour Park! Near Saorge, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France, there are several routes offering superb views of the Roya gorges. Further down towards the coast, the hilltop villages around Menton and the Vallée de la Bévéra invite you to hike between the sea and the mountains, between natural pools and azure panoramas. It’s the perfect opportunity to discover another facet of the region!