La Turbie towers above Monaco at an altitude of nearly 500m on the Grande Corniche. The town is the proud home of the Trophy of Augustus and its old village. Winter holidaymakers fell in love with the breathtaking views which they would feast their eyes on from the Côte, on the droveways crossing terraced farms then, from 1894, on the rack railway from Monte Carlo. The train was shut down in 1932 after a serious accident but the view is still just as spectacular from the Rondo, as La Turbie’s mayor and tourist guide author Philippe Casimir wrote in the 1900s: “This panorama, unveiling one of the biggest and most diverse landscapes in the world, is an attraction that makes a big impression.”
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La Turbie
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The Rondo
This stone balcony dates back to 1824. The Trophy of Augustus watches over it as visitors drink in views of Monaco below, headlands, Italy in the distance and, if the skies are clear, Corsica. The last stop on the rack railway was nearby.
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The Tête de Chien
This headland is a landmark in the Riviera. Aside from its incredible views of Nice and Italy, it’s a reminder that the Belle Époque may have been a unique and carefree time of peace, but it was also a time for building defensive structures for the military, just like the Tête de Chien fort that was finished in 1884.
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Beausoleil
Beausoleil and its history are intrinsically linked to Monaco beneath it. Beausoleil began life as a La Turbie district where Italian immigrants lived whilst working on major building sites in Monte Carlo (the casino, opera, railway, hotels, villas, residences and entertainment venues) before it officially became a town in 1904. Aside from being a company town, Beausoleil became a winter holiday resort with its crown jewel, the majestic Riviera Palace that still towers over it. The world’s biggest names stayed at the luxury 150-room hotel which had a tram line straight to Monte Carlo Casino.
The hilly town is worth a visit for its Belle Époque buildings and villas. You may not be able to take the rack railway up the slopes anymore but there are lots of lifts to save your calves.
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Riviera Palace
The Riviera Palace was built by the Newrest Wagons-Lits company in 1899. The luxury hotel stands out for its incredible 200m2 winter garden with a 27m high glass roof designed by Gustave Eiffel’s studio. It has now been turned into apartments so you can’t go inside, but you can get up close to the stylish building. Venture up its sweeping staircase and drink in views of the sea and Monte-Carlo.
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The Tonkin district
Many of the Italian immigrants who spent 50 years building Monte Carlo lived in this neighbourhood. It’s still home to a maze of lanes, little houses and gardens that you can see on your way up to the Riviera Palace or on the steps running through it.
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The Town Hall and Boulevard de la République
Beausoleil also built its own “Haussmann” district near Tonkin. The elegant Boulevard de la République, lined with early 20th century bourgeois apartment buildings, holds its own against nearby Monaco. The Town Hall is its crown jewel and opened in 1908.
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Villa Juturne
Villa Juturne is listed as a Monument Historique and captures the Belle Époque in all its glory. Its many period features were painted by its owner, the artist Patrizio Rogolini, famous for designing the stage curtain at the Comédie Française. It was originally meant to be a “revenue house” with twenty rental apartments for winter holiday guests.
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Gustave Eiffel Market
The Beausoleil market has been bringing the town to life every morning between 7am and 1pm since 1902. Head to the market to sample socca (chickpea pancake), barbajuans (chard and cheese fritters) or courgette fritters with a ristretto coffee before tackling the walk up to the Riviera Palace surrounded by Belle Époque buildings.
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Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
The medieval village of Roquebrune became Roquebrune-Cap-Martin during the Belle Époque after the Cap and seaside were turned into a holiday resort. The incredible scenery naturally meant that equally incredible buildings sprang up, including the Grand Hôtel du Cap-Martin, which historians described as: “the perfect blend of decorative beauty, function and technology of the period”. Incredible villas also appeared including Cyrnos, designed and built for Empress Eugénie, Napoleon III’s widow.
You can only get close to the Cap Martin villa from the sea. We recommend you take a boat trip or take a leaf out of Sissi of Austria’s book and walk the coastal path from Monaco to Menton to catch a glimpse of these beautiful villas’ gardens.
If you’re in the mood for nature, escape to the countryside on the “old path from Roquebrune to Menton” in the old village. Go past the ancient olive tree and dive into the countryside, which probably hasn’t changed much since the Belle Époque.
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Parc du Cap Martin
The 3.5ha site is listed as a Remarkable French Site and was part of a sprawling property deep in Cap Martin. It is split into several areas, including an olive grove with as many as 300 hundred year old olive trees, a reminder of what the Cap was like before its Belle Époque transformation…
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The monument built for Empress Sissi
The Danish architect Hans Georg Tersling designed the obelisk that was inaugurated in 1899 between the sea and maritime pines. It celebrates Elisabeth of Austria’s stays on Cap-Martin, namely at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Martin built by the same architect in 1891.
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The Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Martin
The English business behind the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Martin opened it in 1891. It was the height of modern style, which saw Stephen Liégeard describe it as the “Leviathan of luxury and comfort.” It’s renowned for its VIP guests such as Elisabeth of Austria and Empress Eugénie. It was turned into apartments in 1959.
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The Le Corbusier trail
The former custom officers’ path along the coast between Menton and Monaco not only brings you unique views of the Mediterranean, but also the Grand Hôtel du Cap-Martin and hundreds of incredible seaside villas including La Vigie, Karl Lagerfeld’s home near Monaco, and Cypris, whose columns facing the sea are clear to see…
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The old village path from Roquebrune to Menton
If you want to visit the ancient olive tree (it’s actually 2000 years old!), go on this little adventure in the Roquebrune countryside starting in the old medieval village, its maze of colourful lanes and terrace with views of the Principality. Along the way you’ll see local farms with lemon trees that are now grown in raised beds. It also takes you past La Pausa Chapel, near the villa of the same name that Coco Chanel built after World War I.
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Parc du Cros de Casté
Parc du Cros de Casté stands at an altitude of over 300m above the old village of Roquebrune. It has stunning views of Cap-Martin and Menton Bay in unspoilt and natural Mediterranean surroundings. Its 7 hectares lie on one of the Maginot Line sites so you can still see its bunkers with the original metal turrets.
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Roquebrune Cemetery
Roquebrune Cemetery towers above the sea and old village and is famous for being the great architect Le Corbusier’s final resting place. Countless Belle Époque winter holidaymakers have been laid to rest here too, including the Grand Duchess Xenia Alexandrovna of Russia, the sister of Emperor Nicholas II.
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Menton
Menton’s exceptional climate was lauded by some influential English doctors so the town initially attracted wealthy Europeans to help cure respiratory illnesses.
Then from the 1880s, thanks mainly to Queen Victoria’s stay here in 1882, Menton joined Monaco, Nice and San Remo as a prime destination on the Côte d’Azur. It became the place to be in winter among royalty and European elite. The town was already famous for its lemon growing and underwent a huge urban overhaul in keeping with other winter resort destinations: a huge seaside promenade was built alongside leisure venues (tennis club, casino etc), places of worship (Russian church etc.), villas, leafy parks and luxury hotels.
Most of these holiday residences have been turned into apartments but Menton still has some of the most hotels out of all the Côte d’Azur destinations.
Look up and you’re bound to see these sleek stone liners facing the Mediterranean and often surrounded by tropical gardens.
Former Palaces
There are a lot of them in Menton. The people who live in the palaces are well aware of their heritage and formed an association to protect and promote their legacy in 2016. The “cercle des palaces retrouvés” unites co-owners of 21 former palaces that each had over 100 rooms.
The association published a highly detailed book about each one and set up cartouches in town with the heritage department so you can delve deeper into the incredible history of the Belle Époque and each of its palaces.
Experience the high life for yourself and book a room in one of the 4 palaces that are still in business (Royal Westminster, L’Orangeraie – ex Grand Hôtel de Venise, Grand Hôtel des Ambassadeurs, Le Balmoral) or book a tour of the palace grounds listed as Monuments Historiques (Impérial, Winter Palace, Riviera Palace) as well as L’Orangeraie and the Royal Westminster.
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The Russian Church
Menton’s Russian Orthodox Church reflects the importance of the Russian community during the Belle Époque.
The Grand Duchess and Tsar Nicolas I’s granddaughter Anastasia had it built in 1892 and funded by wealthy families.
It used to adjoin the neighbouring Hermitage hospice for young Russians with pulmonary diseases.
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Palais Carnolès grounds
Palais Carnolès was Monaco’s princes’ villa and originally surrounded by orange and lemon trees. Its 137 varieties make it one of the biggest citrus fruit tree collections in Europe (lemon, orange, mandarin, bitter orange, clementine, grapefruit, kumquat, bergamot etc.) that stand alongside contemporary art sculptures.
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The former Hôtel Impérial
The Impérial was one of the last palaces to be built in Menton and was designed by the famous Danish architect Hans Georg Tersling, the man behind countless Belle Époque buildings. It had 300 rooms (and 150 bathrooms) but only had two good seasons before the First World War broke out. But it pushed forward until the Second World War and played host to the likes of the Shah of Persia and Maréchal Joffre.
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Annonciade Monastery
It has stood 225m above the town for over a thousand years and seen Menton transform over the centuries. Its spectacular views made it a popular attraction during the Belle Époque.
You can drive to the grounds and chapel or walk up 464 steps from Chemin du Rosaire in the town centre. The footpath takes you past two former palaces: the Winter and Riviera.
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Saint John Church
Saint John Church was built in 1868 and reflects the importance of the English community during the Belle Époque and how they influenced Menton’s transformation. The English put their passion into helping local sports clubs to thrive, like the tennis and croquet club, as well as outstanding gardens whose sheer number are now the pride of the city.
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Menton Tennis Club
Originally called the Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club and founded in 1900, it has hosted the best current tennis players at its major international annual tournament. This is where the divine Susan Lenglen won 10 single and doubles finals without dropping a single set…
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Biovès Gardens
The Biovès Gardens were designed in 1895 by Edouard André, the man behind the Buttes Chaumont in Paris. They were a favourite among winter holidaymakers for their views of the sea and Promenade du Midi. They’re still a prime destination for blooms, especially during the Fête du Citron®.
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The Palais de l’Europe
Kursaal Casino was the biggest on the Côte d’Azur when it opened in 1909. It was a prime destination for high society with a ballroom, games room, fine dining restaurant and theatre. The Clou du Kursaal was the rollerskating room where you could skate as a band played every morning…
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The former Hôtel Winter Palace
The Winter Palace opened on January 1st 1903. It was initially designed as a next-generation luxury hotel by its Grand Prix de Rome architect, Albert Tournaire. He gave it its stylish appearance, two pyramid belltowers and all the modern comforts the Belle Époque elite expected: restaurants, ballrooms, concert hall, billiards room and fabulous terraced gardens.
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The former Hôtel Riviera Palace
A stone’s throw from the Winter, the Riviera Palace was one of the beacons of Menton hospitality in the early 20th century.
Its rivalry with the Winter Palace is what saw the owners do a whole host of renovations, extensions, new suites, Florentine reception rooms and an incredible wine cellar carved into the rock to win over aristocrats and upper classes.
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The Town Hall
Menton Town Hall stands on a beautiful leafy square and has been in charge of the town since 1901. It is now famous for its staggering wedding venue designed by Jean Cocteau.
It was built in 1859 to entertain winter holidaymakers during the Belle Époque with games and shows. It was called the “Cercle des étrangers” then “Grand casino de Menton”.
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Menton Market Hall
Menton Market Hall has showcased produce from the local area and nearby Italy since 1898. The building is true to Belle Époque elegance with its polychrome ceramics by Menton’s own Saïssi manufacturers on the top of the frontage. The market hall still brings the town centre to life every day.
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Villa Maria Serena Garden
The villa was built in 1886 and supposedly inspired by the work of Charles Garnier. It has a garden, famous for being the mildest and easternmost in France, with a vast collection of palm trees, cycas and exotic plants that tend to grow underground.
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Boulevard de Garavan
The 3km Boulevard de Garavan was built in 1888 between the old town and Italian border. Locals call it the “Babylonian dream”. It was soon lined by beautiful villas and gardens designed by horticulture enthusiasts who easily acclimatised exotic plants. Halfway down it forms a balcony with benches to drink in the unique views of Garavan Bay and old Menton.
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Clos du Peyronnet
Nestled between Boulevard de Garavan and the sea, this is the last garden in Menton to be owned by the same family for over 100 years. That gives it a real Belle Époque energy. It’s owned by an English family with a love for botany who have planted over 600 species of plants from overseas.
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Parc du Pian
Parc du Pian is a public park home to olive trees, reminiscent of bygone agricultural landscapes. It’s a refreshing and leafy place to take a break between Boulevard de Garavan and the beaches.
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Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden
The leafiest garden in all of Menton is now run by the Natural History Museum. It was designed in 1905 by Sir Percy Radcliffe and his Indian wife Rahmeh, whose name means “tranquility”. It hasn’t stopped expanding ever since with more exotic plants, making it a conservatory for over 1700 taxons… the Belle Époque’s passionate botanists would be proud.
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The Vieux Chateau Cemetery
One of Monaco’s princely palaces once stood here and the site is now a reminder of its winter residents’ lives here. It soars between heaven and earth and plays host to the tombs of local families and overseas residents alike, some of which are real works of art.
